Let’s learn
how to design photo-realistic chainmaille inlays like a pro!
This
is the method I use for
photos but it’s definitely
not the only way. Hopefully you find this helpful, all the same.
Also, this
is specifically for photo-based inlay patterns. Lower detail inlays
and sprites are their own animal, worthy of their own tutorial.
Photos may require some
lighting and color correction up front, but low-detail inlays often
need a lot of pixel-by-pixel cleanup and smoothing at the end. I’ll
try to put one together someday.
0. Find A Good Picture
1. Tools You’ll Need
2. GIMP – Setting Up Your Palette
3. GIMP – Resizing
4. GIMP - Recoloring and Indexing Colors
5. Irregular Grid Painter (IGP)
6. IGP - Pattern Instructions
7. Final Thoughts
1. Tools You’ll Need
2. GIMP – Setting Up Your Palette
3. GIMP – Resizing
4. GIMP - Recoloring and Indexing Colors
5. Irregular Grid Painter (IGP)
6. IGP - Pattern Instructions
7. Final Thoughts
0.
Find A Good Picture
Colorful and dynamic helps. Subtle shadows tend to become dark voids. Keep in mind, the more detailed your base image, the more outrageously large your inlay will need to be to keep that detail.
So,
without further ado, I’ve found the perfect muse, and HIS NAME IS
JOHN CENA! /Trumpets
First
things first, convert your starting image to PNG or something else
small and lossless. Saving as a JPG later on will screw up your
perfectly indexed colors and will probably crash IGP. I also
recommend saving each action/step as a different file. This method is
destructive and we’re going to create a lot of variations until we
find something that works.